KOREAN HERITAGE

Megaliths from the Bronze Age

Korea and Its Sauces

Fermented soybeans have held an important position in the diet of East Asians for thousands of years. Recipes based on fermented soybeans have been passed down within families through the generations, giving birth to a colorful range of variations. These traditional soybean-based sauces transmitted among Koreans are known as jang. The definitive examples include ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste), and gochujang (chili paste). Traditional Korean sauces all start with meju, which is made by pounding cooked soybeans and shaping them into blocks that are then fermented. The development of traditional Korean sauces likely began around the time when meju blocks were first produced, which is estimated as the third century CE or before.

To make traditional Korean sauces, meju blocks are soaked in brine and fermented with microorganisms. During this process, the proteins in soybeans are broken down into amino acids that exude a distinctive flavor described by the Korean adjective gusuhada. This fermentation also allows for extended storage. Confined to the mountainous environment of the Korean Peninsula, Koreans of the past filled their tables with wild vegetables collected from the mountains. Fermented soybean sauces added savory flavors to these vegetable dishes. The lack of protein in this vegetable-rich diet was supplemented by the soybeans in the sauces. Jang sauces also contain Vitamin B12, an essential nutrient that is not present in soybeans until they are fermented. The traditional Korean diet revolves around vegetable dishes and fermented foods, a cuisine epitomized by jang sauces.

Ingredients from Nature It is thought that soybeans originated in Manchuria, a territory north of the Korean Peninsula that was once under the rule of the ancient Korean kingdom of Goguryeo (37 BCE– 668 CE). These soybeans from Manchuria were brought to Korea where they grew well anywhere they were planted. It must have been natural to incorporate this abundant plant into the local diet. Another important ingredient for making traditional Korean sauces is salt, which it typically produced in the tidal flats along the southwest coast of Korea. Korean sea salt is characterized by regular grains and a sweet aftertaste. The fresh waters in Korea are generally of good quality and contribute to the flavor of traditional Korean sauces. These three elements of nature—soybeans, salt, and water—come together to produce these traditional sauces. One thing to note is that the fermentation process for jang sauces involves three classes of microorganisms: fungi, bacteria, and yeast. Fermented foods elsewhere in the world typically apply just a single type.

Completed by Care and Time

Some of the soybeans harvested in autumn are stashed away until winter and then cooked to create meju blocks. After fermentation, the meju blocks are used to produce jang. The jang sauces are brewed when it is cold so they can be gradually exposed to higher temperatures with the arrival of spring and summer. This process of fermentation progressing from low to high temperatures brings out all the different elements in the ingredients. At first they compete with each other, but with time a harmonious taste is generated. Jang sauces require attentive care during their fermentation. In the daytime, the jar containing a jang sauce should have its lid removed to allow sunrays to destroy unwanted microorganisms. The lid is put back on at night to protect the contents from moisture. The surface of a jang jar should be cleaned regularly to keep any harmful substances at bay. The final ingredient for making traditional Korean sauces is attention and time.

Jang sauces vary in taste from family to family, sometimes serving as an identity marker for a particular household. Family-specific jang flavors are supported by the practice of keeping soy sauce for an extended period and constantly topping it off with newly made sauce to replace what has been used. This aged soy sauce is known as ssi ganjang, or “seed soy sauce.” When talking about traditional Korean sauces, the importance of the containers cannot be overlooked. Jang sauces are traditionally stored in clay pots known as onggi. Onggi pots have small pores on the surface through which respiration can take place to improve fermentation. Buddhist temples played a critical role in developing and disseminating the jang-making tradition across society. In Korea, Buddhist temples were mainly located deep in the mountains. This remote mountainous environment was combined with the Buddhist practice of abstaining from meat and inspired a diet rich in vegetables and fermented foods. Soybeans were the primary source of protein for Buddhist monks in Korea.

A Tradition to Live On

Making and sharing jang is a time-honored tradition that has long been transmitted by ordinary members of society. They are therefore given the responsibility of passing down the tradition to future generations. After showing signs of decline with the emergence of factory-made condiments, sauces produced in the traditional manner have recently been regaining popularity. Koreans are turning back to traditionally made sauces due to their health benefits. Jang sauces do not just add flavor to foods: They also support the health of consumers. They suggest ecological notions about what people eat and underscore the value of slow food. The tradition of making and sharing jang will continue well into the future.